Posted on August 19, 2003, 3:50 am
by Sergio Masiddo
Following is some feedback I recieved regarging the use of this device.
Chris Gupta
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 04:34:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: sergio masiddo
Subject: YOU ARE SAVING LIVES
....THIS IS THE SECOND DAY I USED YOUR MAGNETIC THUMPER ON
MY BRAIN......YOU ARE SAVING LIVES......THERE IS 98
PERCENT REDUCTION OF PAIN AND DISCOMFORT...
THE GOOD LORD RECOMPENSE THEE
SERGIO
Posted on August 24, 2003, 3:42 pm
by O W Hungerford
Cris. I have a sota puler that is not very strong as you know. It is effective to a couple of inches?? However I have also a magnetic waist belt that I use against my skin witht he pulser on the other side. Boy does that pack a whallop and it does the job in a few zaps. Need to have some professional attention to this method of inhansing the pulser to penitrate deeper . I have used it on the sinus area on my head with great relief.alson on kidneys same results. Gods speed and keep the reaseach going. The Truth will set you free owh.
Posted on October 4, 2003, 8:20 pm
by Gerhard Ditterich
Wir brauchen Ihre Hilfe.
Ihre Beschreibung MagneticPulser die Windungen
(130) Querschnitt der Spule
Gerhard Ditterich
Weistfeld 17
30539 Hannover
Germany
T +495119524360
Posted on December 5, 2003, 6:15 pm
by Chris Gupta
Tjarko, what is Maximol and / or NewVera?
Also it is not always true that the "problem will move to anther place" as the magnetic pulse or electric currents change the profile of he cell membranes that facilitate nutriment uptake and detox that can heal the injury pronto....
Posted on December 5, 2003, 6:15 pm
by Chris Gupta
Tjarko, what is Maximol and / or NewVera?
Also it is not always true that the "problem will move to anther place" as the magnetic pulse or electric currents change the profile of he cell membranes that facilitate nutriment uptake and detox that can heal the injury pronto....
Posted on December 7, 2003, 1:25 am
by Jose Podadera
dear Christ, I´d like to know if can tell me which changes should I make to the circuit for use it al 220 v 50 hz. Is there any other automatic pulser that i caN built?
Thanks
jose
Posted on July 7, 2004, 6:36 pm
by David Waggoner
just checking to see if this comment section is working again...
Posted on July 7, 2004, 6:38 pm
by David Waggoner
Creative Science & Research
PO BOX 557
New Albany, IN. 47151
www.FuellessPower.com
sales@fuellesspower.com
Posted on August 24, 2005, 4:11 pm
by john
Hi, it would be nice if you could post some pictures of the final project/board. Though a schematics is fine then for me it would be easier to also have a picture to look at.
Thanks for your great site.
Posted on August 25, 2005, 6:39 am
by john
Hi, I bought all the parts today which was pretty easy except for the SCR.
3 things:
1) shouldnt i put metal inside the coil to enhance its effect?
2) I have used 6x 560 UF capacitors (at 250 v) for the unit - will that be ok when I use 250 volt? I wanted to make it more powerful than your schematics (also, i could not find any capacitors lowwer than 270 UF anyway). Or, should I increase the capacitors to capacitors who can handle 400 volt instead of just 250 volt?
3) Your schematic is good. You could make it more clear your text because sometimes it seems like you talk about a schematic/part of a schematic which is not on the page, other times you talk about schematic 1 or 2 - and its not really clear for a newbie at least :-).
4) pictures of your units would be a great enhancement also.
Posted on August 27, 2005, 5:04 pm
by Bob Davis
I have built a super thumper with 4,000 uF of capacitors. I used a huge SCR. When the coil is set on the floor with an aluminum washer it will launch the washer into the ceiling leaving a dent. Two or three pulses and arthritis is gone! The schematic is under electromagnetic coil devices on my web site.
Posted on September 6, 2005, 11:49 am
by john terry
Hi, make sure that if you use 220 volt instead of 110 volt that the capacitors can handle at least 450 volt.
Also, be aware that the click switch should be made of very good quality - mine blew off afer just 1-2 clicks (where I did not use the SCR also).
The SCR is probably a very, very good idea so now I am upgrading my simplified version to the one with the SCR. It should be finished by tomorrow...lets see how it works then :-)
Chris, thanks for your help about modifying to 220 Volt.
NB Please make updated schematics to make the magetic pulser oscillating wth 5.000 hertz or similar.
John
Posted on September 7, 2005, 12:10 am
by Chris Gupta
John, it is not possible to oscillate at 5,000 hertz at those power levels. The oscillation is limited to the recharge time!
Posted on October 2, 2005, 4:05 pm
by john
Chris, I have a design schematic for a pulser that can auto-pulse at 1 and 5.000 hertz. You can ask "V" to get it or me.
Posted on October 3, 2005, 12:00 am
by Chris Gupta
Please sent it John, will have a look. Incidentally you cannot pulse at 5000 Hz at the powers here unless you have a humongous power supply!
Thanks
Posted on November 9, 2005, 11:34 pm
by Al
Hi Chris, 12.Nov.2005
I have used your schematic to construct a Magnetic Pulser. I am not wonderfully electronically minded; I try to follow the picture. I will try to include some pics with this email. If they do not come through, let me know how to get them to your site.
I was unable to get a 130uF capacitor, so used a 100uF @ 160v. I used, used PhotoFlash capacitors from disposable cameras and had an assortment. I firstly used 5 120uF (= 600uF) at 330V. I attached it all to a simple board. My SCR is 600v 25 A.
I had some problems. Firstly, I had wired up the SCR incorrectly, so it was not happy. (Thought that the gate was the middle terminal, not the # 3 terminal. Had to have an electronics friend help for that.
Secondly, I did not clean up the board well enough and caused a small burn across some connection, which were too close to each other. (Photo 1: Note the board scorch beneath the SCR.) I removed the SCR from the board as it gets warm with rapid use. I also changed the position of the rectifier (2N5402) as it was too close the PhotoFlash-legs connector.
It did not thump as well as I expected, so I added another 2 PhotoFlash capacitors and all was well. Total PhotoFlash capacitors now 860 uF @ 330v. I mounted the bulb, (100w) in a separate container to reduce the heat and for protection against a capacitor exploding.
The SCR and the capacitors get very warm when operating at peak times. It takes about 2 seconds for the lamp to go out ( recharge the capacitors). I now fire it between 4 and 8 seconds intervals. The thump is quite noticeable.
I used heavy duty flex from the works to the coil. I am presently in Mexico, so I sometimes have problems getting the locals to understand my bad Spanish and have to use internet pics to order difficult parts. (I have also just completed a Beck Blood purifier – and it is working.) For the coil, I used 16 gauge enamelled wire about 150 turns – with ample silicon, to prevent movement and shorting, (ordered #14 gauge, but #16 arrived). I also covered the back of the board in silicon to prevent short outs between the PhotoFlash capacitor legs. As they were already used from the cameras, their legs were short. I used heavy copper wire to connect each. Next time, I would probably use insulated wire and break the insulation at the leg points. The coil is in a plastic container. My wife and I have only been using it for couple of days, so we will need a little time to determine its efficacy. Photo 2 complete in plastic containers, yellow momentary switch and the thin plastic cover of the coil, kept open with the pliers.
I now have a few questions for you, please.
1) Will the thickness of the coil container make much difference to the coil output?
2) If I were to add additional PhotoFlash capacitors, do I need to change either the SCR of the primary 100uF capacitor? I was able to buy an SCR 600v 40A today. And could probably get an 800v 40A, now that I know the manufacturer and ordering numbers.
3) Could you let me know if it is possible to use something like the flash bulbs of the disposable cameras to not have to use the 10w large globe
Posted on November 21, 2005, 11:35 am
by Ricardo Macalino
Hi! Cris could you tell me please the difference between a Photo flash capacitor and Electrolytic capacitor. Will they work just the same on the magnetic pulser circuit?
Thanks,
Ricardo
Posted on November 21, 2005, 9:39 pm
by Ricardo Macalino
Cris, Could not find SCR here would a TRIAC work in place of it in the magnetic pulser circuit? Thanks again
Posted on November 26, 2005, 12:53 pm
by semsem
please send me pulser circuit of ultrasound.
Posted on November 29, 2005, 3:24 pm
by Chris Gupta
Georgia,
Please read:
Lyme Disease & Rife Machines
Posted on December 3, 2005, 12:53 am
by Al
Hi Chris, 02.Dec.2005
I emailed you Nov 12 to this forum, but I believe that I messed up my new email address, which I have now amended.
I hope that you may be able to find time to answer some of my questions from that November post.
With thanks
Al
Posted on January 13, 2006, 12:22 am
by Chris Gupta
A transformer just adds expense. The idea was to make as cheap as possible.
Yes I have designed a timer but just have not updated it yet.
The circuit is self limiting hence there was no need for adjustable current.
Posted on January 13, 2006, 9:41 am
by Anders Anderson
What is the function of the 120 Volt, 120 watt lamps or 2 - 60w lamps in parallel? Circuit Voltage dropping?
Should they be be replaced by a resistor of the same wattage.
Does the inductor to the right side of the schematic circuit represent the magnetic treatment loop?
If so, what physical size is the treatment loop?
What is the function of the The 10K resistor the Diode and the manual switch in the top schematic?
The link to free Circuit Maker Student Version electronics does not transfer to the link.
You should reduce the horizontal length of the circuit in order to print the whole circuit with out resorting to separate landscape printing.
Read your reponse re previous question series and have the following comments.
No transformer may be less costly, however, it will make the circuit more effective (gause wise) and provide a control range which I would consider necessary for treatment of the immune areas over the heart.
Posted on January 13, 2006, 11:35 pm
by Anders Anderson
I have examined your circuit more closely and now found the answer to my previous question regarding the inductor.. And find in your preamble, this induction coil is wound on to the Video Cassette.
However, you have not shown the "Therapy Loop" as a device in your circuit, Is it in series with the Induction Circuit?
What amperage would one get in the therapy loop?
Posted on January 14, 2006, 11:01 pm
by Chris Gupta
Anders,
There is no need for xformer it will not make the circuit more effective. Study the circuit more and you will have the answer.
There is no "therapy loop", it is designed to be used as per the Beck protocol.
Please reread the information before asking more rhetorical questions.
Posted on May 22, 2006, 12:24 am
by Chris Gupta
Mike, that is normal. It all depends on how precisely in the focus of the feild you place the washer.
Posted on May 22, 2006, 4:58 pm
by Mike C
It seems to want to attract metal
more than repel. I put one of those nail grid arrays next to it
and it attracted all the nails.
maybe my coil is not precise as I just used a speaker coil with 2 ohms resistance.
Posted on May 29, 2006, 1:14 pm
by marinus gerber
please let me know where i can find these schematics that everyone is talking about on this page.thanks
Posted on June 9, 2006, 11:50 pm
by Chris Gupta
Ken, you can use the 250 v caps, although your will be pushing them. The two light are needed for safety and there is no cheap way to replace them. Resitors are not suitable.
Posted on June 15, 2006, 12:48 pm
by
Hi Chris; have built the pulser. used five 350uf 450v cps and a 220uf 350v after the bulbs. used two very small halogen chandelier bulbs under a small mason jar on top of housing. a 15a micro-sw for the trigger. when I fire it up the bulbs light and go out in about 1.5 seconds and when triggered get only a weak pulse that barely rocks a 1.5" washer. Should the caps be closer on value to the schematic? I did the scr one.
Posted on June 15, 2006, 3:56 pm
by Chris Gupta
What wattage are the bulbs?
Posted on June 27, 2006, 7:51 am
by Mohammed Haris
Dear Chris,
The link to circuitmaker is not working... can you please send me the JPG of the circuit with the modified SCR version ??
Regards/Mohammed Haris
Posted on August 8, 2006, 9:02 pm
by Javier Camberos
Los bulb de 120 w es un foco de filamento de 120 w normal de los que se usan en casa
Posted on September 4, 2006, 6:06 pm
by Ray
Hello
Could I inquire Chris 7hVhycis their a modulaing frequency that would be most beneficial.
Than you
Ray
Posted on November 16, 2006, 5:37 pm
by Admare Jinga
hi chris. I wud like to build an auto-pulser. May you please send me a schematic and intsructions to help me building one. I have all the components to build one. Thank you for your help Chris, it is very invaluable.
Posted on November 14, 2007, 1:51 pm
by steffan Heydon
just checking to see if this comment section is working again...
Posted on November 23, 2007, 11:26 am
by JASON MORGAN
can you tell me the frequency of the magnet pulser you have designed.thank you from jason.
Posted on November 25, 2007, 11:07 am
by steffan Heydon
Photos with basic electronics info related to the construction of Chris Gupta's Electromagnetic Pulse Machine can be found on my web site. The information presented, will be invaluable to anyone wishing to construct their own electromagnetic pulser (thumper).
http://www.twotowers.com/beck/beck_emp.html
Posted on January 7, 2008, 11:34 am
by Jurgen Vogel
Build a new Thumper and got some very interesting results with it. I use a bridge rectifier on a 240Volt supply. In series with an oven element of 2.2 KW to limit the current. Originally I used 3 650 uF capacitors from old photo flash units, the SCR is rated for 30 amps continuous. Now with the total capacity of 1950 uF I had a reasonable strong magnetic field. I then replaced the photo flash capacitors with high quality elyt capacitors. Also 3 X 650 UF. They are not flash rated but are very large indeed. They have screw terminals on top and are the size of rather large jam glasses.
The interesting results are as following, the capacity is the same but the large capacitors actually generate pulses which are may be 50 to 100 times stronger as the flash capacitors. Also I noticed that after 30 to 40 pulses the coil gets so hot that its impossible to hold her in the hand. Also the original capacitors got rather hot after a few discharges, the big capacitors stay completely cool.
One thing I have to be very careful is to keep the coil away from monitors or television receivers. During the first tests it magnetized the shadow mask of my monitor from a distance of more then 6 feet. I had a hell of a lot of work to do to degauss the tube.
What I do not understand is that the overall capacity is the same, but the results are spectacular different.
Best Regards
Posted on February 4, 2008, 8:13 am
by Eduardo
What would be the modifications of the magnetic pulser for 220v AC?
Thanks.
Posted on February 13, 2008, 2:46 am
by ALFONSO
Chris, can you please give me the modification for 240VAC version of your pulser?
Thanks
Posted on March 27, 2008, 10:39 pm
by Nick
Chris I would like you to publish a 220-240VAC schematics..You are saving lifes here mate, please do the necessary alteration as soon as possible!Please! If Chris can't do that, please anybody else who knows how to do it, please do it!Just give us a complete schematic for 220VAC with parts etc. and I persoannly would be grateful!Thank you in advance
Posted on April 3, 2008, 11:20 am
by HMK
Are there any hobbyists out there willing to make a thumper/godzilla/beck pulser unit for me at some cost?
I can be contacted at my URL.
thank-you.
Posted on April 4, 2008, 6:08 am
by Lothar
Hi Chris,
I finally was able to get a S6020….had to order it and it took over a week to get here.
Your Thumper works beautifully…washers were hitting the ceiling.
Many thanks Chris....you're a legend.
Kind Regards,
Lothar
Posted on May 26, 2008, 10:50 pm
by Terry Ross
Hi Chris,
I am interested in the 220-240 Volt version schematic if it is available.
I read a previous post, shown below, and would like to also get the details if possible.
Regards, Terry
"Hi, make sure that if you use 220 volt instead of 110 volt that the capacitors can handle at least 450 volt.
Also, be aware that the click switch should be made of very good quality - mine blew off afer just 1-2 clicks (where I did not use the SCR also).
The SCR is probably a very, very good idea so now I am upgrading my simplified version to the one with the SCR. It should be finished by tomorrow...lets see how it works then :-)
Chris, thanks for your help about modifying to 220 Volt.
NB Please make updated schematics to make the magetic pulser oscillating wth 5.000 hertz or similar.
John
Posted by: john terry on September 6, 2005 11:49 AM"
Posted on June 10, 2008, 12:35 am
by Alex
Greetings! Could post the 220V plans please ))
Posted on July 15, 2008, 5:58 pm
by Supertechster
I can convert any schematic or plan to 110,120,220 or 240v.
All... The key to conversion is the total POWER (in Watts) which is a product of Volts * Amps into the device.
Diodes and Capacitors must be rated 2.5x the input voltage. Actually it is 1.414* but then they tend to overheat. I always use 250-300v for 110/120v and 600-800v for 220/240v. A TIP:
Photoflash capacitors are designed for High-Voltage, LOW current, very quick 'low-load' discharges. A photoflash tube (Xenon) is essentially a glass tube filled with Xenon gas and an electrode at each end. The Gas is inert/does not conduct electricity, hence it can be put directly across a fully-charged set of 350v capacitors and will NOT flash. The 'secret' is a tiny transformer of 80:1 ratio, which has its output wire physically 'wrapped' around the Anode-end of the xenon tube. When 'Fire' is pressed, part of the energy srored in the capacitors goes thru that tiny 'trigger' transformer and comes out 80 times higher (350v*80=28000v) This High Voltage Ionizes the gas in the tube (turns it instantly into a conductor) and a 'short circuit spark' jumps from the Anode to the Cathode, creating a bright flash. Very little to 'No' load there, huh? A coil on the other hand, cannot be put across the capacitor because it WILL spark loudly, short out and commpletely drain the 'Cap, and produce a massive magnetic pulse. It is for this reason that an SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) is used. It CAN handle the massive short-circuit current flow of the coil device. Further, an Electrolytic Computer-Grade capacitor is larger, heavier, much beefier and can store many times the ENERGY as a similarly-rated Photoflash device.. which is why your Lyticaps THUMP better ;-)
I have built a Zapper of my own design, producing perfect square waves(!) from .01Hz all the way to 40Khz @ 0 to 300ua, using only 1 IC and 4 electronic component parts. The first one I made was back in 86; and still works, although I had to replace the batteries numerous times along the way. It is 3*2*2", uses only 2 3v batteries and the 'tingle' can be felt through the entire body, from Head to feet when one steps on one wire, and bites a spoon connected to the other.
Now I am perfecting a Thumper which anyone can make from a discarded Auto-Flash camera and a bit of time. I managed ~30 such cameras in several diff. configurations and models and am on the case!
Stay tuned
PM me if you want to chat or need help
Posted on August 6, 2008, 10:51 pm
by Terry Ross
Supertechster
Re: "I can convert any schematic or plan to 110,120,220 or 240v."
I am very interested in any info you may have on this 240V conversion.
But - where do i PM you ??
Terry Ross
Posted on August 16, 2008, 7:34 pm
by Phil
Why is everyone increasing the capacity of their "thumpers" to such high levels, when the original Beck model was designed to create a specific micro current? This would seem to me to be straying away from the original model which worked fine.
Posted on August 19, 2008, 9:19 pm
by J ZEPEDA
HI Chris...thanks for you generous sharing..I been trying to build one of this ..but Im in New Zealand and 240V are not working for me ., the firs capacitor keep blowing out on me with a big BANG...mast said is a 100/450V
and for the main I use a 1000/450V can't find the proper SCR got one that looks like a thryed three legs ..from I think the first is the anode second the catode and last one the gate ..if no maybe is way it does not work for me .
so skeep the SCR and fired it and works the first maybe the second time and then just stop
the diodes just short out so has been very desapointing ..I will keep trying..probably Im just dam as never try before any electronics...yes i know find someone else to build it ..but is not the same ..can you please give some advace especialy on the 240V and the SCR as is the only one that I been able to find over here.. and is a 800V at 35A...any help will be apresiated from anyone that use the same voltage GOD BLESS ALL. from Joe.
Posted on September 27, 2008, 1:50 pm
by Carl
I would like Supertechster to get in touch with me.
Posted on November 12, 2008, 9:52 pm
by Todd
Hello Chris:
I am confused about how to attach the extension cord wire (or speaker wire) to the coil itself. Beck explains:
"Now solder ends of 3 ft of heavy two-wire extension cord to each side of coil"
Does he mean that the ends of the coil wire are attached to the ends of the cord wires or soldered directly to the sides of the coil?
Thanks for any help
Response: Yes.
Chris
Posted on November 14, 2008, 5:32 pm
by Todd
lol, Chris, I had an 'either or' question and you answered simply 'yes'. Could you explain a bit. Thank you.
Posted on December 11, 2008, 6:56 am
by Stephen
Hi Chris thanks for putting up with all us electrophobs for many years now.
Can you explain for me, how it is safe and not straight mains going threw the coil that would be dangerous. Can you provide a working 240V version diagram, I have now trashed 3 battery flash versions and wish to upgrade but am afraid of the mains connection.
Thanks for being.
Posted on January 13, 2009, 8:58 pm
by jon
Hi, With regard to the 240 volt operation you should all be aware that lone capacitor at the beginning is forming a voltage Doubler, so removing it and shorting it out would lower the voltage to similar to the that intended at the capacitor bank. I would also put the bulbs in series if they are 110 bulbs. Although I have not tried it so take care, and at your own risk of course.
Posted on January 30, 2009, 1:16 am
by Frankie DeLong
is there any step by step program to build a really powerful pulser? I can read schematics fairly well but am not electrically inclined enough to know what the parts look like or where they go...Any info you can give me would help...thanks in advance for your time..Frankie
Posted on February 1, 2009, 10:17 am
by Paul Sumner
Hi Chris. I am getting some parts together to build one of these units myself. I live in England so I need to use it on 240v. I have sourced the capacitors, I have 5 80uf and 2 or 3 120uf, can I wire them all in parallel, or do they have to all be the same rating? Is 330v enough of a top end so that the photoflash caps don't blow. And third-ly, is Jon ^^^ right about the first capacitor near the bulbs being a voltage doubler and I can leave it out. I don't want to blow myself up or electicute myself as you can understand. I have/did have colitis (I'm going for a test next week) before I started using my flash gun magnetic pulsar and plant stimulator, now some of the symptoms are disappearing. I have got together a 10k 3w resistor for the SCR, a 3 amp push to make switch, a couple of 1n5406 diodes (rated 600v 3 amp) and a UH20FCT (which is the SCR) rated at 300v. Does it look like I'm on the right track? Or do I need further help wiring this for 240v?
Posted on February 2, 2009, 6:17 am
by Paul Sumner
A message for Todd, further up the page (Nov 12 2008 - yes I know it was an age ago). You strip back the insulation from the copper wire from the start of your winding and the end of your winding using sandpaper and solder the mains wire to each end of the winding you have just sanded. Imagine your coil as a resistor, as it were, wiring it in series.
Posted on February 7, 2009, 11:05 pm
by Peter
For 240v op I used a 240 to 120v transformer to power it as is without changing anything, works great.
Posted on February 8, 2009, 7:31 am
by jon
Paul, I am sure of the front capacitor forming a voltage doubler, the problem is at 240v the voltage on the caps is still a little too high for 330v caps suggested they need to be at least 350v
with the voltage on the cap going to approx 1.414 x the quoted mains voltage, 400v caps are safer. A transformer is a more conservative approach, if you are at all worried then as 'Peter' a says transformer is the answer.
For everyones information for a given capacitance if you double the voltage the joule energy quadruples therefore if you run the original circuit at 240v with all capacitors voltages suitably scaled i.e. voltage of caps x2.5 you can divide the capacitances needed by 4.
However at these voltages the device become much more dangerous, so I would favour a solution keeping the voltage stored lower.
All the above info is of course my opinion, and is offered in the spirit of friendship FOC, but of course used at your own risk.
Posted on February 9, 2009, 7:00 am
by Paul Sumner
They sell 100w step down transformers on ebay for about £15, or 300w for £27. Don't think 100w would be powerful enough but would 300w suffice? Not sure what the amperage is of this beastie! I assume that it's at least 120w because of the 2 bulbs. Also if you visit http://www.twotowers.com/beck/beck_emp.html and view Steffan's pulser he put the live wire to the switch which seems to go straight to the coil! Live to coil looks v dangerous. He said that a switch should always work on the hot wire, which I agree. But if you look at the diagram, that would lead the live to the coil, with no diodes blocking. This would either shock you or just turn the coil into an electromagnet without firing it off. Anyway, not sure if Chris's design should have the switch just between the bulb and power as I would not normally wire a bulb to the neutral wire alone and to go through all that circuitry to get the live back or maybe Steffan is correct? He did say that it may not matter about the polarity. After all it is AC and the nature of AC is that is loops from plus to minus. I don't fully understand that though because in that case then why can I not get a shock of a neutral wire, but I would always get a shock of a live wire. Then there's something I read recently that a switch should always be at the end of a circuit. The only problem is if I do get a stepdown transformer I would have to source 2 X 60w 110v bulbs and I'm not sure about the diodes, would the higher voltage ones still block a reverse current? Still at 21p a diode I may as well replace them eh? The bulbs seem harder to get, unless they are from china.
Posted on February 11, 2009, 7:04 pm
by Jon
Actually the bulbs exact bulbs are not too critical. They appear to be acting as a simple charge current limiter.They also stop shorting the mains when you fire the trigger too. I would say that the power drawn can be no more than the that of the bulbs, since they are in parallel, it seems that 120 watts is the max power, however in theory you might need too have a bigger transformer as the effiency of the tranformer is not 100.
If you use lower Wattage bulb or bulbs the circuit will work just the same, the transformer can then be cheaper and smaller, the only difference would be is that it will take a bit longer to recharge the capacitor bank
between each discharge, which I would have though would not be a problem. The orginal circuit should still work with only one bulb and create less stress on the diodes and caps in the process.
I will comment on some of the other stuff in your post when I get time to check it out.
Posted on February 12, 2009, 3:45 am
by bryan
i would just like to ask chris or anyone here i just built my first pulser and used old school modified camera flash. the flash is a vivtar 2000 model, what the power from a flash like that will produce out of the coil? and second when i discharge the flash there is definitely a pulse coming off the coil but the flash is not any dimmer than usual, does that mean most of the power is not getting dumped to the coil?
And also to anyone who doesnt want to wind the coil, the msm electronics is no longer selling them, but I found a company that does sell almost all size, gauge, and mH coils
http://erseaudio.com/
Posted on February 12, 2009, 3:45 am
by bryan
And also to anyone who doesnt want to wind the coil, the msm electronics is no longer selling them, but I found a company that does sell almost all size, gauge, and mH coils
http://erseaudio.com/
Posted on February 13, 2009, 7:57 pm
by Paul Sumner
Nearly there now guys. I tried wiring the scr every which way then gave up and bypassed the SCR and resistor. Pop, the washer jumped!! YAY!! BUT..... The SCR is good for holding the power down until it dissipates as I found out when I got a shock. I'm still here! I needed that!!! Anyway I could do with some help with alternative SCR's please and how the 'ek you wire them. I am quite naughty! Coz I ignored some peoples advice and went for wiring it up for 240v. Sorry Jon. What I did was wire everything by the diagram with the live going to the switch (even if I don't really like that, I would prefer the switch to go just before the bulbs and to wire the live that way round.) Because if this has been build 100s of times before it must be right! Anyway the secret was to wire the capacitors in both parallel and series. + to + and then - to + and + to the next - on the next cap. I got 660v rather than 330v that way, which I admit is fooooookin dangerous but it works, and there is no chance of the caps blowing that way. All capacitors ran cool and my switch has worked a few times, I'm not planning on using it much without the SCR as I don't think it's as safe without it. My smoothing capacitor for the bulbs is a single 120uf 330v (I worked it out because my other caps are 660v) If you look at Chris's brill plan the first cap is 150 v and the capacitor bank is 300v so to me 330 and 660v seemed perfect. My problem was that my SCR would not feed the caps. I had a multimeter placed accross the capacitors initially to watch them charge. They charged in about 1-2 seconds the first time then less then a second following that. When I pressed the switch (with a plastic ruler) the coil thumped and lights flickered and went out. I then unplugged the device and watched the multimeter, back up to 660v so I pressed the button.. Thump again. Then I think the single capacitor must have been charging the bank because the voltage went up to 330. This circuit as it stands is v hard to discharge. I have left it upstairs with a massive resistor across the cap bank. Another question is when unplugged the actual plug seems to get a charge from the 330v cap! I put a multimeter across and it read about 330v? Whats going on, should it do that. I will say that I left the power switch in the circuit on, maybee that has a lot to do with it. Please advise.
I know I'm a monkey for playing with 240v (or 660v)but at least I know it works, and I may as well persevere with it. Another question I have is when you see Bob Beck with the coil he actually puts his tongue on it and presses the trigger. Stupid question (I'm not about to put my tongue on it now),but does the coil now need to be heavily insulated so that I can hold it, or is it still just a magnet that can't harm me? I have put insulation tape around the connections to the black box, but just simple sellotape (for now) around the coil, mainly to keep it together.
Paul...
Posted on February 14, 2009, 9:01 am
by Brian
Hi Chris,
I am new to this magnetic pulser circuit but decided to build one. Here in South Africa our mains voltage is around 230v. Obviously the input doubling cap and diode can’t be used on 230v. I used two 60w 230v bulbs in parallel .I wanted to use 100w but couldn’t find red ones in that wattage! Red ones look nice! The bigger the bulb wattage the quicker the charging. The capacitors I could get are rated at 330v ,which run at full voltage. They have not shown any distress at this potential so far and work fine. A 400v rating would be better.
The capacitors add up to about 800uF and I have used a 40TSP16 thyristor which runs very cool.
After using for a while I got tired of repeatedly pressing the trigger button and built a simple circuit to trigger the coil every 7 seconds and switch it off after 20 minutes. This is much better and more relaxing to use!
To answer some of the readers’ questions. The position of the switch in the live or neutral does not
make any difference as the coil will be completely insulated and the components mounted in an
insulated box. As the circuit is directly connected to the mains it must be unplugged anyway if
work is to be carried out .Also the capacitor must be discharged , I use a 820 Ohm 10 watt resistor.
A cheap and cheerful way to reduce the voltage a little on the caps is to buy 20 cheap 2amp 1000 piv diodes and wire them in series in place of the regular diode .This will effect a drop of about 12volts which can be useful. They can be soldered together side by side and take up very little space.
Brian.
Posted on February 14, 2009, 11:44 am
by Frankie
simply put, i want to build a thumper. i have some knowledge of electronics and can read schematics but i have trouble applying what i see in the diagram ( which i can read ) to actually building it. where can i get a complete list of parts and where to get them? what is the diameter of the copper coil wire to make my own coil? anyone that help me out? i have a medical condition that i want to try one of these on because im tired of surgery. any help that anyone could give me would be great ...Thanks and God bless...Frankie
Posted on February 18, 2009, 12:39 am
by Jackson Mungai
Anybody who can send me the Schematics of 240 will be wonderfull.
Bob Davis of "I have built a super thumper with 4,000 uF of capacitors" please send me the Schematics as the link you gave doesnt work. I will appreciate.
Please Jurgen Vogel also send me yours too, i have a look at them.
Posted on February 20, 2009, 1:48 pm
by Jon
Well Done Paul, there is more than one way to skin a cat. I was going to point out the option of putting the caps in series to increase the voltage,(this does have the capacitance however) but had descided to try and guide you towards a lower voltage and probably safer device. With the extra voltage I would consider lots of insulation essential! I was interested what bulb you used ?
Posted on February 20, 2009, 6:20 pm
by Paul Sumner
Hi Chris, still saving lives and freeing us from surgeons and doctors I see. I have to say, I've tryed your 240v version, it works well, but does not charge half as fast as my 240vac to 660vdc version. I have sussed out why my scr is a bit dicky. I got a new one from RS and I just needed to wire my 3 amp 10k resistor as a 6amp one by putting 2 of them in parallel. The scr could not read the lower voltage properly from the switch. Thus the caps would charge but when I pressed the button the thumper would not fire. Try it if your having problems with 240v folks. It also works with 4 amps (2 x 2a) and 5 amps (1x2a and 1x3a) sometimes work, but definitely not with an inverter stepping up the volts from a 12v car battery. I've also discovered that since I took the charging cap (the first one near the bulbs) out of the equation and the diode, as per your diagram and stepped the voltage down to 330v, the thumper wont build up enough charge across the capacitors to activate the scr-whilst using my inverter/but will on mains power. But my scr may be too big as it was rated for the 660v circuit. Anyhow, what I have learned from this exercise is that the higher voltage of my original design does not increase the thump, but because of the first capacitor and diode that runs across the caps, it does charge up almost 3 times faster. I'm sooo boring!!!
Paul...
Posted on February 22, 2009, 7:05 pm
by Paul Sumner
Hi Folks, please can you tell me what the A/B switch is. Is it a user operated single pole double throw toggle? Or double pole single throw? And are the 1M 70 percent and 1M 50 percent just 2 X 1 megaohm potentiometers set to 50 percent and 70 percent resistance? These may seem like stupid questions, but I just want to be sure. I take it when the neon lights up the signal is sent to the SCR triggering the pulse off??? Very ingenious Mr Gupta!
I wish I could create circuits like this. By the way, I sound sarcastic, but I'm serious.
Thanks
Paul...
Posted on February 23, 2009, 2:02 pm
by Paul Sumner
A word of caution Jackson. To much power can cause the coil to give off electromagnetic radiation. Please don't use too much power. Chris has mentioned it at the begining of his article. All Bob davis uses his pulser for is fun, i.e throwing hard drive plates 40 foot in the air. He uses a microwave transformer and 700volts, the apacitors look about as big as coke cans. You can watch him on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2M3rzx6jtnk&feature=channel_page
As far as I'm aware if you were to zap yourself with this you are likely to fry your internal organs with radiation!
Posted on February 24, 2009, 6:24 am
by Charles Bayl
Dear Chris
Can you email me a schematics for a 220/240 autopulse circuit
magnetic pulser "thumper"
I would be eternally grateful, I need it for a serious health problem urgently.
Thank you
Charles
Posted on February 24, 2009, 2:28 pm
by Paul Sumner
http://www.geocities.com/bobdavis321/
Bob Davis's website.^^^
Posted on February 25, 2009, 9:07 am
by David Spiller
Hi Cris,
Thanks for your efforts. I
find that my unit works well enough and thought the output was week with it building up
to 247 volts peak across the three 270 uf caps in parallel
so I decided to put a speaker magnet on the back side of the coil (away from treatment area)
and it really improved the pulse for the first pulse but it de-magnatized the magnet, so if anyone else has experimented ways of increasing the shape of the magnetic discharge to effectively shape the pulse towards the treatment area and not de-magnatized the magnet, let me know.
also thanks of the tip of using MSM for eyedrops to
increase eye hydration for cataracs
Posted on February 26, 2009, 12:18 pm
by Paul Sumner
I managed to build an autopulsing circuit with 240v. I combined fog 3 with fix 4. It works quite well, although because the pulsing is quite fast, the capacitors don't charge as fully, so it's weaker. I'm going to go for modifying my 660v capacitor version with a 220v neon (or a neon and 270k resistor in series) 2 X 400v 10uf caps in series (for the pulsing circuit to bring the capacity up to 800v) and my 330v 120uf first cap with the 2 diodes in place. I will keep you posted as to how that all works. The 240v version Chris has so kindly posted does not seem to charge as fast as my series capacitor version, I think the first capacitor near the bulbs and the diode linking the live wire up to that capacitor in order to charge it is really needed, it helps the capacitor bank charge faster. Cutting those 2 components out of the circuit makes the pulser either slow to charge, or week in the multipulser circuit. I still think the series/parallel caps work better ie 4 capacitors of 130uf/330v each wires in series and parallel would in my circuit equal 660v 260uf 2 of them in series would be 660v 130uf or if you did them in parallel 330v 260uf. Does anyone know what I mean by series AND parallel together to double the voltage AND capacitance? I have taken some pictures of my capacitor bank and will hopefully post them somewhere for you.
Posted on February 26, 2009, 11:13 pm
by Charles Bayl
Can someone send me schematic drawing of the 240V autopulse circuit.
Also where can I purchase a circuit board for the bob beck blood zapper. I desperately need this, please help!
regards
Charles
Australia
Posted on February 27, 2009, 1:43 am
by Supertechster
At the top of this page http://www.newmediaexplorer.org/chris/2003/08/19/build_a_low_cost_simple_magnetic_pulser.htm is a set of 4 schematics. #4 is a 220/240v version of the Thumper. The basic difference between the 110/120v and this one is removal of the voltage doubler ckt (1 diode and 1 capacitor) To increase the output, simply add in additional capacitors across the 5 130Uf/330volt ones already shown, bearing in mind that there is a limit where the joules will fry the scr and blow the coil. OK.. Coil is air-core spool with 2.5Mh inductance and avail at good Audio suppliers on line, Farnell, Dick Smith in Aust. or CPC /Maplin in UK. The author and several of the responders also provided links. For those of you new to DIY Electronic assy, 90 of a 'parts list' to take t the parts store, can be derived from the schematics...
You will need: 1ea 220v fused ac cord, 1ea heavy duty switch to handle 2-5 Amp inrush current, 1 or 2 tiny 220v bulbs with flush-mount sockets to equal total of 120watts (inrush current absorber), 1ea 1000v 4a diode, 1ea set of 330v rated capacitors (photoflash type) to equal approx 1000Uf total, 1ea 8 to 10Amp 600V SCR (or larger) NOT a Triac which only works for AC... Specify SCR. A 10 Kilohm 1 watt resistor used to couple a tiny bit of DC off the + side of the capacitor bank which is tied to the + (anode) side of the SCR (Thyristor) to the trigger lead of that same SCR thru the FIRE button - which you also have to buy. The other side of the SCR goes to about 10' of AC Line cord (ZIPcord) used to connect the coil (2.5Mh,) to the Cathode side of the SCR and the - side of the capacitor(s) and the On/Off switch. Just follow the connections on schematic #4 above and start wiring and soldering it up keeping in mind that all but the SCR are two-terminal devices and the connections are marked with a . (period/black dot) No wiring goes 'thru' any device... only to ONE side of it. Example: If you have two sockets for the bulbs, looking at the schematic you will see that they are wired in parallel, so connect the black wires together, and then connect the white wires together, then get One wire of the AC cord and connect it to EITHER the black side or the white side and sloder it or use a wire-nut. The other side of the socket(s) wire goes to one side (the CATHODE or side with the band) of the diode. Now connect the other AC input wire to one terminal of the ON/Off switch and solder or screw down tight. The other end of the diode (ANODE) goes to the + side of your capacitor array, and the other side of the capacitor array goes to the unused terminal on the On/Off switch. That will get you started. You now have the 330v DC power supply wired and ready to go. All you need now is the FIRE circuit, made up of the SCR, Resistor and FIRE button... and the output comprised of XIPCord and coil ;-) Thats how to do this. EZ, huh?
Cheers!
Posted on March 1, 2009, 7:04 am
by Jon
Paul please be careful, you are making lots of speculations in your last post which are incorrect and misleading. This will cause people to be mislead and confused. When you put capacitors in series the effect is to halve the capacitance so actually with 4 capacitors in series parallel you will have capacitor in effect a capacitor of 130uF rated at 660 volts. But you still have kept the doubler voltage is doubled.Charge is proportorional to V squared. So you still have the same charge stored as the standard arrangemet all be it with it being a bit more dangerous with 600v+. The rate of charge probably depends a bit on how the bulbs are responding to the double arrangement. Charging faster indicates more stress on the parts. But for info to increase the charge rates you can change the bulb rating but take care, you are loosing sight of what this device is for. The capacitors can only store a limited amount of joules however you design the circuit the max energy they can store before destruction is the same
Posted on March 16, 2009, 10:17 am
by Jurgen
I read most of the submissions here. The idea with a step down transformer is basically ok however a 100 or 300 watt transformer will simply not work to well and finally blow up. What you need if you use this approach is a 2 kw or bigger transformer. I use here now a total of 2400 uF capacitors rated at 450 volts. They are charged from the 230 volt line via a bridge rectifier in series with a 2 kilowatt heater element. Even then it takes about 6 seconds to recharge the capacitors, After a few firings the heater element gets to be red hot. That should give you an idea of the need for mighty big transformers. A disk from a computer hard drive is fired right into the ceiling, so is a large aluminum or copper disk. Iron or steel washers do not work so well as the internal resistance of the material is simply too high. To cut out the back emf recharging and damaging the capacitor bang by having opposite polarity I connected a 50 amp cont. 800 volt diode across the coil. Positive to plus and negative to ground. This will short out the back EMF. However be warned a small 2 or 5 or even 10 amp cont. diode will not due. It will blow up at the first firing.
Good luck to all.
Jurgen
Posted on March 26, 2009, 10:45 am
by Andre
Brian from South Africa, could you contact me or send me the schematic of your pulser? I am also from the RSA. Send to andreler at gmail.com (just fix @ as normal).
Thanks and appreciated.
Andre
Posted on March 29, 2009, 11:18 pm
by Frankie
Anyone know the requirements for a heavy duty switch and have a website that i can purchase it from? i am trying to build my first circuit and am bypassing the SCR until i am ready to upgrade. Thanks Frankie
Posted on April 13, 2009, 12:10 am
by Steve Thompson
Hi Chris & Everyone I built a magnetic pulser I hooked My Behringer power amplifier to a Radio Shack 24 volt transformer to yellow wires stepping up the voltage then I used three 470 uF 200 volt capacitors that I took out some old Computer power supplies It would lift a hacksaw blade around 2 Inch & toss a washer over 2 feet diagonally hitting Me, The problem Is I pushed the voltage to close to 200 volts & put the coil over the top of My head & push the button then Immediately I felt faint & dizzy & sick. I have an eye Irritation & the Rife Doug coil was Not helping that Is why I was using the magnetic pulser It was the only thing I could figure out what to do without putting Electrode pads on My eyes which I though might get burnt doing that, the magnetic pulser did Not hurt My eyes but I got carried away & zapped My head & neck too but I seen Robert Beck do that too. I built a small coil but high Intensity Doug coil I use the same way with No adverse effects. Did I use too much power Sota specifications show they use 600 uF capacity at 330 volt charge which equates same power If Not My magnetic pulser having less kick. What can I do Is their a Rife frequency that will reverse this what method of Rifing do I use I Am Not sure what to do. I will use the Rife Doug coil at 570 Hz
Posted on April 18, 2009, 6:45 am
by john smith
This is a message for juergen vogel, you sent me a photo of your magpulser and be electrifier, could you please contact me by email if possible
cheers
GLAD TO SEE HUMBLE PEOPLE! spreading the word on DR BOB BECK PROTOCOL!! thank you soo much my dear friend! im glad the Videos i've posted about DR BOB BECK are being used in such websites! FREE WAY OF CURING YOURSELF PLEASE DONT SLEEP ON THIS PEOPLE! also about the Nutrition Part ---> Check out another Cancer Curing Disease Curing Therapy THE GERSON THERAPY
www.gerson.org!
See also: Dr. Gerson's Suppressed 1946 Congressional Testimony
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-Knowledgeispower11
Posted on May 25, 2009, 10:14 pm
by avser
I want to make this but i don't know anything about electronics. is there a movie on how to make it. please respond.
Posted on May 30, 2009, 5:46 pm
by AlienBuster
I was searching web for alternative circuit designs and found few of them (not sure if they would work) : http://members.misty.com/don/rsinvert.html
and this one (will require modifying): http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/circ/dazer.htm
This one is adjustable 0-300v power supply: http://www.geocities.com/tjacodesign/300vsup/300vsup.html
Here is a strobe light circuit showing trigger position: http://www.tkk.fi/Misc/Electronics/circuits/strobo_12v.html
this is another possible circuit that would require modification to lower the output (I find this one do-able. I think that is similar circuit to what M-Pulse 5000 could be using using): http://www.discovercircuits.com/DJ-Circuits/12v.htm
3 strobe-triggers designs: http://www.tkk.fi/Misc/Electronics/circuits/strobotrigger.html
I do not know if any will work for our PEMF design.
I also have found timer trigger circuit using 555 IC (but you also have to add AC to DC transformer in to the circuit to use it): http://members.misty.com/don/strotrig.html
I have finally watched Dr. Glen A. Gordon video - that was interesting - he runs his device at 70 pulses on 9vdc battery. That means it is a low Gauss output to reduce temperature and small coil using IC design. Perhaps some of the first link in this post with IC power steppers would make such device possible and much smaller coil.
Waiting patiently what you can cook up with these design concepts.
Thanks.
AlienBuster
Posted on May 30, 2009, 6:40 pm
by AlienBuster
Thank you Chris and all of you who posted here with info and questions that help me understand what I need to do to build one of these.
I am in process in building one of these and was looking for good Magnetic Wire - its very expensive. Best price I found was $20 + shipping for 1 lb of 14awg at 80 ft, or 1 lb of 16awg at 128 ft. Will one spool at 1 lb be enough to make a coil? To go with 1 and half lb will cost me close to $40 with shipping.
Can regular plastic insulated electrical wire do for a coil? or does it have to be magnetic wire? The only thing negative against the regular electrical wire I can think of is the lower heat rating of insulation and greater separation from one wire to the next.
The reason I am staying away from already made coils is because of the large internal diameter (ID) which is much larger then the specified 1" and they cost a lot two - from $25 to $32 without the right dimensions.
My concern is due to one link that you have here that on which that gents unit is pushing sideways which could be the result of larger inner diameter. What do you think about that?
Thanks.
AlienBuster
Posted on May 31, 2009, 5:37 pm
by AlienBuster
This item was too funny not to share:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dr-Robert-Beck-Magnetic-Coil-Device-100X_W0QQitemZ370209252091QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item563230e2fb&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
This guy is using full 500ft roll of electrical single - solid core wire (still on the spool) with a photo-flash. I read larger then 2.5 mH is not better right?
AlienBuster
Posted on June 16, 2009, 6:50 am
by Jackson
Where can i get the
Fine Silver Wires 99.99 pure
14 AWG for Colloidal silver generation
Posted on June 26, 2009, 6:06 pm
by Joe Minichini
I wired the circuit according to Chris Gupta's design. When I plug it in and flick the switch the lights stay on... I'm a newbie so I could really use someone to talk to about this right now. Thanks.
Posted on July 7, 2009, 1:10 am
by Jackson
I am currently assembling the Magnetic Pulser. Anybody show me how one connects the SCR and the long wire that blows the
washers.
Regards
Posted on July 7, 2009, 5:18 am
by Andrew
What does it mean if the poles keep switching??
please email me.
Posted on July 18, 2009, 6:13 pm
by Herman
Hi Chris,
your circuit obviously works but has a big flaw in it. The problem with electrolytic caps is that they will derate quite fast when aplying a negative voltage to them.
what you get when connecting a cap and a coil in parallel as you do it here is a LCR-Resonant Circuit in which the voltage at the caps will change polarity after every half-cycle of the oscillation.
that is not very healthy for those caps. to make them last longer you should connect a Power-Diode in parallel to the capacitors to inhibit the reverse polarisation or use bipolar capacitors.
With Bipolar Caps you would also waste much less energy.
I've build quite a few pulsers of this kind for other applications with dischage energies of a few to a few tens of Kilojoules. without the Diodes the Electrolytics wont last for very Long.
Greetings
Response:
Yes indeed, you are quite right, sadly I did use a diode but totally forgot to put it in when I published the circuit. Will add it if and when I update the post....
Thanks for catching this oversight as it will certainly help the caps life and performance...
Chris Gupta
Posted on July 26, 2009, 6:02 pm
by Frankie DeLong
Im trying to build one of these pulsers but can not find the 150v/130uf single capacitor or the terminal contact bars that are in the circuit. Can someone send me and email telling me where i can purchase these items online? is there a substitute i can use instead of the 150v/130uf capacitor? will a single bar of copper wire with 5 caps soldered to it work just as well as a terminal contact bar? please help me out as i have all of the other parts and am trying to make this. thanks in advance for your time...
Frankie
Posted on August 11, 2009, 6:29 pm
by steffan Heydon
Hi Everyone, well over a year ago I build my first emp device based in Chris' design. Since I was new to electronics it was a wonderful learning experience and I had a lot of fun. To make the task easier for others to build their own thumper, I spent numerous hours documenting everything I learned including graphics and photos onto a web page. To access this web page. Click on the following link: http://twotowers.com/beck/beck_emp.html
For those that have any question about whether Chris' design works, I can attest that my thumper works wonderfully.
Posted on August 20, 2009, 2:59 pm
by Clem
I've built the pulser per the plans, cept the scr I used a sc655, it's 600v 55a rated. I followed the first plan. I can't get the washer or nut I've been using on my camera flash pulsers to jump any higher using this plan. I can hold the nut above the coil and can feel how far out the magnetic pulse is reaching, and it's not going any further than the camera flaser.
I'm using 8 330v 120uf caps, (so, 960uf caps). The other cap next to the lights is a 470v 200uf cap and I have two small 60w 120v bulbs in parallel. Also I am using 16g for my coil and wrapping it to fill the vhs spool. Why am I unable to get any jumps from the washers or nuts?
Posted on August 21, 2009, 2:45 pm
by steffan Heydon
Chris, please post this information regarding building a mag pulser based on your schematic. As you know, I have put together a very detailed web page, outlining everything one needs to know about how to "build your pulser". With the information on my web page and yours, no prior knowledge is needed to build the pulser. Kindly, Steffan
http://twotowers.com/beck/beck_emp.html
Posted on August 26, 2009, 11:43 am
by MikeC
I am using 240 VAC and have sized all the parts accordingly.
I wired in the "auto" feature but the 1M pot does not control the auto function.
If the pot is about 200 Ohms, it will auto pulse about once every two seconds.
If I turn the pot up (100K Ohm) the NE-2 bulbs will glow but the SCR never conducts.
I used two NE-2 in series as the voltage is 240 VAC so I think you must do this.
Any ideas how to get a 5 or 7 second delay between pulses?
Posted on September 1, 2009, 1:20 pm
by Steve
I used 16g wire. Is that different than #16 wire? How do I get a washer to fly more than an inch in the air? I have 960uf total caps @ 330v and when I trigger it I can only get a washer to move an inch or so.
Posted on September 7, 2009, 5:13 pm
by Rick
I have a question about the design. Based on the values of the circuit you can find out easily that the RLC tank is under damped, which means it will tend to oscillate. The SCR version will impede the current from reversing but the capacitor will be charged negatively because the voltage and the current are out of phase. I saw Beck's original waveform (http://www.teslatech.com/images/waveform.jpg) and it looks like it is an over damped wave instead. Could you please clarify?
Posted on September 8, 2009, 2:22 am
by Arthur McPherson
Re:10K resistor. How many watts resistor do you use in the "Primary circuit"? 1/4, 1/2 or bigger?
Response:
1/4 watt or higher is fine. CG
Posted on September 13, 2009, 4:50 am
by Mike C
Pulses with the auto circuit, 240 main power too fast, about every 1 to 2 seconds.
How to fix?
Posted on September 17, 2009, 12:07 pm
by Jurgen
I did some experiments with the magnetic pulsers which might be of interest.
1st. I used a total of 3100 uF at 330 volts. Results very good but even through a 3 KW oven element it took 5 to 7 seconds to recharge the capacitors.
2nd. I reduced the capacity to 600 uF also at 330 volts, this charged the capacitors almost instantaneously. But the pulses observed on an oscilloscope were very short but not of a very high amplitude.
3rd. I used capacitors of 1100 uF. This time it took about 1 second to recharge, the observed pulses were very high and sharp, actually they were much higher in amplitude as the 3100 uF ones.Also I noticed that the higher value of capacitors seems to broaden the pulses considerably. This might not be in the interest of any medical action.
I did make many more measurements and found that 1100 uF at 330 volts appear to be optimum for the intended application.
The capacitors used are computer grade units about the size of medium jam glasses with very heavy duty screw connectors on top.
I also tried the more normal photo flash capacitors and found that for the same capacity they generate less then 15 of the magnetic pulses. Why this is so I do not care to comment.
May be this helps somebody. The bigger capacity is not always the best.
Jurgen
Posted on September 29, 2009, 8:28 pm
by MikeC
How to make the pulser work automatically on 240 Vac?
Even on 120 Vac I see it pulsing too fast ( 1 ~ 2 seconds) and the caps can never fully charge.
Can you update the schematic to show the required changes?
Thanks,
Mike
Response: You can adjust the pots shown in Fig. 3 to change the speed. CG
Posted on September 30, 2009, 8:29 am
by MikeC
Adjusting the pots doesn't make a difference.
I also have the cap in series like the 120 Vac drawings even though I am using 240 Vac main power. The voltage across the caps is about 330 Vdc and I use a bridge rectifier rather then the two diodes.
Maybe I will try and take the series cap out and try it.
Thanks!
Mike
Response: For 220V you must use fig. 4 this used only one diode. CG
Posted on October 1, 2009, 2:59 pm
by Miso B
Hello,
is there a schematic to build a "Oscillating Output Magnetic Pulse Generator"?
Please email me if U do have a schematic
tnx
p.s. I rather die then use antiblliotic anymore!!
Posted on October 11, 2009, 1:15 am
by MikeC
OK, have the Thumper working on 240Vac main power with the automatic feature. I wired the Thumper just like Chris' diagram 4. Then I added the auto circuit from diagram 3 and also added another NE-2 (neon bulb) in series, so I am using 2 of the NE-2 bulbs. I have the 1M pot set at the 50 position and I see the caps charging up to about 280 Vdc and then the SCR fires. About 5 ~ 7 sec charge up time, so OK!
Posted on October 27, 2009, 2:01 am
by Trader
I build the 120V with the SCR. After I turned it on it worked for like 5 clicks but now the lights are always on and NO pulse. What component failed? Please help
Posted on December 19, 2009, 8:22 pm
by Fabio
Chris. On the AC supply. Do you have the hot hooked to the lamp side or the other side on your circuits?
Posted on January 8, 2010, 5:25 pm
by Veda
Dear Chris
I am building the 220V version ( in INDIA) and can not get the 3502 ol
1. do you know other component that can do the job ( diffrent number)
2. what IS THE current ( Amp )and Volt which is passing and assimilating on this component (3502 ol)
thanks for any hint
veda
Posted on January 11, 2010, 10:00 pm
by zhero
does anyone know of a way to generate pulses of a specific frequency? 2hz,7hz whatever i just need how any help would be appreciated.
Posted on January 21, 2010, 8:52 am
by Nasri
Hello, please visit this site for instructions on building your own Bob Beck Blood Electrifier on a solderless breadboard.
http://www.unleashhealth.com/instructions.html
Posted on February 21, 2010, 5:16 am
by patrick
Chris,
It sounds like you have a great deal of experience with this info, please email your response. Does the magnetic pulser affect metal dental work at all ? I wonder if it would cause any pain, etc. ?
Also do you see much difference in the benefits between the Beck electrification vs. the super simple 'directly wired' version (no pot adjustment, etc.) ? Have you had any issues with the FDA/ gov with sharing all of this info ?
Thanks,
PD
Response:
It is possible to jar the fillings out if not secure but I suspect that this is not common at the moment there is not sufficient evidence to reach a conclusion.
The Beck blood purifier is automatic and regulated - the simple version requires more experimentation and one has to reverse the polarity manually at given intervals but requires little to no skill build. Both have been found to be effective.
All my work is public domain and there are no commercial interests - it is directed towards education/experimentation with all the risk that entails. As such does not come under the FDA jurisdictions. See disclaimer at the bottom of the site. CG
Posted on May 4, 2010, 7:05 pm
by james wilson
Years ago, per Bob Beck, I bought an RF generator and a transformer. For the life of me I cannot remember what the transformer was. Do you happen to know what that would be.
James Wilson
Posted on May 11, 2010, 7:26 pm
by Paul
"Please note that this is not a permanent magnet but a pulsed magnet and as such the polarity is not an issue, when the pulse collapses the magnetic field reverses. Hence one need not worry about the magnetic polarity." That statement is way at the top of this page. I believe it is not correct. The voltage on the coil will reverse as the field collapses, but the magnetic field will not. The simulation should show that, but I couldn't get it to run.
So if one cares, the magnetic polarity should be checked. The "bio north" or "south seeking" pole will tend to attract the north seeking pole of a compass. (Don't get the compass too close.)
Posted on July 1, 2010, 9:24 am
by Raymond Weisling
For faster risetime, why not use Litz wire for the coil? It is commonly used in switchmode power supply transformers for highter efficiency due to lower losses at high frequencies, because of the skin effect of conductors.
Posted on August 12, 2010, 4:02 pm
by Marc
I have built this pulser but the lights stay on. I have bypassed the SCR and made a simple circuit and same thing. I have 2 100uf330v caps in parallel for my first cap. Any ideas of what is wrong?
Posted on December 8, 2010, 3:08 pm
by mike
Does anyone know where to buy a 2.5 mH coil?
Posted on December 25, 2010, 10:49 am
by David Spiller
I built your simple pulser several years ago and used a US silver mercury dime cut in half as a set of contacts, I also put a High Voltage mica cap across it to limit the back EMF
to keep the contacts from welding shut and a slice of cork from a whine bottle on top of the homemade contacts. I tried a Triac at first but it shorted out and took out one of the photo caps.
I had gotten a report of my psa level in a blood test that was elevated to above 4 and have been using the pulser (SOTA , I broke down and bought one that dosent seem as strong as the one I made but automatically recharged) on my prostate and the next test was back to 3.?
which was considered normal range again. God Bless and thanks,
Posted on February 15, 2011, 9:36 pm
by John
Hi Chris
thank you for posting the information on the pulser schematic. It helped me build one after looking all over the web and finding only blood elec. circuits.
-J
Posted on April 1, 2011, 1:30 pm
by Gus
between this and Steffan's site I was able to get this built. I used the fig 1 primary circuit. Took a few tries and I ended up getting 3 270uf photo flash caps from all electronics. One thing I can say after having built this is a professionally built one from the few guys who sell them(think youtube).. is probably worth it. lot of hours and kinda dangerous... love it see it work though!
Posted on May 15, 2011, 6:56 pm
by eric s
I builth the circuit with components lying around, unfortunately i didnt have a triac or thyristor (aka SCR)so i had to use a lone pushbutton..
also i didnt have the exact cap. for right after the bulbs, a 100uf instead of 130but about the same V rating.
Also, i used 2 40w kitchen stove hood type bulbs in parellel instead of the 60's.
I also removed some larger diodes from an old Acer CRT monitor 1n5408's for both diodes (overkill but available ) the coil is the 2.5mH sidewinder - .. iput the washer 1/2" off center of the coil and just using the energy in 3 120uf rubycon's in parallel , kicked the washer way farther than anything i tried with firealarm/disposable cam flashes .. and then the loud crack noise of the cap discharge .. so i'm looking for SCR's .. any ideas on sources of them ? both in common items as well as a good distributor possibly like allied or digikey .. thx much !! much better than the tiny punch from FA strobes/dis. cam flashes, even with the extra caps wired in parallel on them..
Posted on July 8, 2011, 3:41 pm
by Salvador
Hello.
What is de benefit aported by the SCR?
Is possible to experience good results without it (as Simplified circuit).
Thank You!
Response:
Yes but it will likely reduce the life of the circuit and you need to be mindful of power handling of the switch used.
Chris Gupta
Posted on August 14, 2011, 6:32 pm
by Matthew
Do you have a link to where I can purchase your plans and where to get the parts? Thanks!
Posted on September 20, 2011, 5:38 pm
by Josef Zinkowitz
Does anyone know the 10k resistors wattage for this :)
thx
Posted on October 19, 2011, 6:57 pm
by Jonathan Christie
Dear Chris, your circuit is a miracle of simplicity!
I have a MSD Blaster capacitor discharge ignition, cracks out 135 mJ per spark, 520 Volts, drives a 0.31 OHMs 3.5 mH ignition coil.
I see the Sidewinder coil is 2.5 mH.
Do you see any problem driving the Sidewinder with the MSD? The pulse is really short, could that be a problem?
Thanks in anticipation, Jonty
Response:
Sounds like an excellent idea - go for it. You will have to have good insulation so do at your own peril.
And let me know how it works.
Chris
Posted on January 28, 2012, 9:13 am
by Ellen
Does anyone know where I can find testimonials/stories from folks who have tried using this method? I would love to build one with my husband, but first need to convince him that it is safe & effective! Thanks.
Response:
See:
http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/Beck-blood-electrification/
Posted on May 16, 2012, 3:07 am
by Waynedog
Just completed the assembly of my first Bob Beck Blood Electrification device. Got a few bugs in it. Bi-polar LED is not flashing... not real sure about which of the three pins on the 3.5mm phone jack go to the two electrodes? I stumbled onto Chris Grupta's page & Stephan Heydon's page also... I have all my parts except for the SCR...been shopping around & reading these post to make sure I order the right size SCR... and the right coil. I went down to our local Walmart Discount Store & Walgreens Drug Store... which both have Photo Processing facilities... I asked as kindly as possible for their throw-away disposable camera's they keep in their recycle bin... I got 29 camera's the first day.... After a few more trips I should never ever have to buy another electrolytic capacitor again. So excited about improving my health.... Thanks Chris, Stephan, & others for taking the time to share this priceless information!
Posted on May 25, 2012, 2:43 am
by Waynedog
Update: My Bob Beck Blood Electrification device works like a charm. The third day I over did it & pulsed for 3-hours. Not good! I don't have ozonated water to flush out the bad guys yet. I did OK though by drinking a gallon a day of distilled water. Those directions are there for a good reason lol. My 2.5mh coil arrived in the mail from Madison Speakers in Middleton, WI. about $26.00 with shipping. I made a homemade bus-bar for my Kodak Electrolytic Capacitors, using 1/4" O.D. copper tubing. Flattened the tubing on an anvil. Looks quite professional. I pre-drilled holes in the copper strips for my Caps.... The copper strips had so much mass to them, my 40-watt & my 250-watt soldering iron wouldn't heat it enough to melt the solder. Luckily I had a butane pencil torch on hand...worked like a charm. Went to the local Ace Hardware and got a large scrap piece of plexi-glass 1/4" thick, to mount the SCR-heat-sinking base....and bus-bar to.... I had enough room for 9-330volt, 120uF Caps... Any comments or advice is very welcome... My next adventure is to build a heavy duty water ozonator....then on to a stainless steel water distiller.... XD
Posted on May 26, 2012, 2:28 pm
by Waynedog
Thanks for the email Chris! Hope the pictures help out. For those looking to buy an SCR switch.... Go to www.uxcell.com And they also sell them on Ebay....
Posted on May 31, 2012, 10:56 am
by Bloodhelm
Hi, thanks a lot for all the information I used the last schematic, 240V, but there were a couple of things. I used a potentiometer for the push switch and I have found that if you turn the knob to the right resistance level the circuit pulses - I can get pulses with 4-5 second intervals and smaller intervals but with less power of course. Well I don't know if it's a good idea but anyway it seems to work. Also I'm using 400v 150uf caps and I have found that I get less power after adding more than about 7. Well the washer doesn't go as far at all. I have no idea why this is, it doesn't make sense to me - any idea? I'm just using speaker wire for the capacitor bus, Thanks.
Posted on June 29, 2012, 11:56 am
by Richard
Have you considered using a fluorescent light ballast instead of the incandescent light bulbs?
Response:
You cannot use a Ballast for this application. CG
Posted on August 18, 2012, 11:35 pm
by Russell Cunning
Hi Chris,
Thanks so much for publishing this. I'm in Australia, and cannot find a supplier of 14g copper wire in anything more than 100 grams (about 4 oz). Can I use a ready made crossover inductor? If so, which is more important - the resistance or the mH? There is one I can gt which is 2.7mH with DCR of 1.31 ohms (I don't know what DCR is). Also, can you give some equivalent part numbers for the SCR?
Thanks,
Russell
Response:
Yes you can use a ready made air core xover coil in fact one is mentioned in the said post. Both the resistance and inductance are important. For example if the resistance is too high there will not be sufficient current for the coil to be effective. If the inductance is too low then the pulse will be too week. A slight deviation should be fine. If you have to deviate then go to a slightly higher inductance but try to keep the resistance as close as possible to the one mentioned.
Chris
Posted on September 12, 2012, 12:41 pm
by Bunch
need to be DC, because it's polariy u need. so you have to have a DC output to have north polarity. not use AC it changes polarity when the sinus changes
Posted on November 4, 2012, 1:42 am
by Russell Cunning
Hi Chris,
I've struck a problem. Incandescent light bulbs are no longer available in Australia. The Government has seen fit to ban their sale. What else can be used in their place?
Thanks,
Russell
Response:
There is no way to replace the incandescent bulbs without adding significant complexity to the circuit. I should first try to import the bulbs if at all possible. You could use a 5 amp slow blow fuse, however, this is not ideal and should discourage it as it is not as safe as the bulbs.
CG
Posted on November 19, 2012, 5:29 am
by Dinosaur
"There is no way to replace the incandescent bulbs without adding significant complexity"?
Seriously?
A simple off-the-shelf inductor (look at Jaycar electronics) will perform the same function without
wasting power as heat. Wire in series just like the bulbs.
Or even simpler - reduce the value of the first capacitor!
Response:
The bulbs remain on if thw the circuit is malfunctioning, thus they act as a both current limiter and indicator of a problem. The inductor will not provide any visual feedback.
CDG
Posted on January 14, 2013, 5:13 pm
by JP
Chris,
Thanks for the work so far, I'm very interested in making an EM Pulser myself. I followed the Fig.1 Primary Circuit and made some changes, a) there are no bulbs being used, b) there is no button switch that connects to the SCR. When I first turned on the device, nothing happens and I'm wondering where I went wrong. I'd like to send you some images of my circuit so you can give me some pointers on where I went wrong if you have the time of course.
Thanks.
JP
Response: Sorry I am not able to help those who make modifications - you need to build as described before you make modifications. For example removing the bulbs makes this circuit susceptible to failure and less safe to work with. CDG
Posted on April 26, 2013, 8:25 am
by Ted
Built your 220VAC unit per your schematic and works like a charm. Only mod I did was use a single 830uf photoflash Cap.
Posted on April 29, 2013, 3:10 am
by mouhammad
if I did not found PhotoFlash capacitors can I use common capacitors or what can I do
thanks a lot
Response:
Common caps will not last.
Chris Gupta
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